Snowboarding and skiing areas

First impressions on arriving in Argentière and the surrounding villages of the Chamonix valley is the scale of it. Neck ricking spires of rock with gravity defying slugs of glaciers stretch up and up and up. The ‘small’ mountain range to the north looms above you by a mere two kilometres while Mong Blanc opposite has a staggering 3800m of neck discomfort built in. Where else in the world can you roll off a motorway to gawp at such inspiration?

As well as scenic splendors it endows winter holiday makers with more choice than anywhere else in the world. Winter is capricious, some days you want to be high up dancing through the open powder fields or others sheltering in a forested niche low down.

Here is our personal lowdown on the high up (or not so high.) Where to ski and snowboard.

High Altitude areas

Les Grands Montets

The top half of the mountain has most of the pistes and is world renowned for providing long and consistently challenging slopes which keep excellent snow depth and quality. From the high point (3275m) there are descents from the east facing Glacier de Rognan through to the west facing Pas de Chèvre via the north facing Glacier de Lognan. Not all the terrain is piste accessible. This is shred city, prime realestate on a powder day for confident riders and skiers.

PLEASE, unless you have the skills and equipment to take on off-piste glacier runs hire a professional or stick to the pistes which provide plenty of fun.

There is more to the area. The blue and red pistes are relatively steep but they do widen the choice for intermediate skiers and boarders. This is particularly valuable when high up north facing slopes monopolise the good snow.

Authors picks: 

~Loops through the Lavancher bowl with fresh snow, laying down big freeride turns or following narrow lines between rocks.

~The magic forest’s steep benches on a blizzard day.

~Gazing into the upper Argentière Glacier basin from the top of the Grands Montets lift.

L’Aiguille du Midi

This is the kingdom of high mountain skiing and riding.

For many the whole idea of the ‘midi’ is scary beyond comprehension. The experience starts with what feels like a perilous walk down the infamous arrêt followed by miles of crevassed off-piste finished by a steep walk over the Mottets ridge.

For others it is paradise on earth for exactly the same reasons.

What draws most people is the Vallée Blanche route. It avoids most of the crevasses and takes the only non-steep way down. Magnificent, stunning but scary at the start. For top tips on making this day as safe and enjoyable as possible please contact us. For many this is the ski trip that gives a lift time.of boasts.

PLEASE, unless you have the skills and equipment to take on off-piste glacier runs hire a professional.

Mid-altitude areas.

Le Tour-Balme

A complete resort for all the family. Acres of easy and medium runs beautifully groomed. There are runs facing in all directions, a majority with westerly or northerly exposures. Coupled with it’s easy connection to the Vormaine nursery slopes and restaurants we believe this is the most complete area for family holidays.

Authors picks:

~Savoury and sweet pancakes in the railway station restaurant (Bougnette)

~Tree lined cruise on the Forêt Verte run

~Easy powder slopes between the pistes

~Pumping off-piste in the Gorge de Vormaine.

Please treat all of-piste with the respect it deserves.

La Flégère – Le Brevant

Nearly as complete as Le Tour but with a little less for absolute beginners, more for advanced.

Flégère has a nice balance of blue, red and blacks. The green runs offer wonderful first real piste after the nursery slope.

Brevant has a blasting blue roller coaster, a couple of stiff red runs and the black piste from the summit has a mogul field that can make the big boys whimper.

Authors pick:

~Charles Bozon black piste from Brevant summit, don’t forget to hit the moguls without traversing to far left.

~Combe Lachenal at Flégère, super steep for a red run at the top, the most difficult part can be avoided by entering a few hundred metres lower down. Even then it is still quite challenging. Has a sort of away from it all charm in it’s own valley whilst still being a piste.

~Floria, especially the black, offers long runs with ‘in your face views’ of the cliffs and glaciers of the Mont Blanc range.

Les Houches

Almost all the runs have tree cover and with a few exceptions are easy or moderate. This is the place pick up a bit of speed, hide on snowy and windy days and has the best mountain eateries.

Somehow the combination of the highly efficient Prarion lift and a system with no real bottlenecks avoids the worst of high season excesses. There is a range of cafes and restaurants available on the mountain and at the bottom their the lifts. Of areas in the valley this easily offers the best quality food and also the widest range; Self service chips and red sauce, a real French neighbourhood boulangerie, shepherd huts with molten cheese delights and a couple of places developing their own take on local specialitiesdeveloping.

The views make a nice change from the other sectors. This is the only place to look up the west side of the Mont Blanc range plus has wide open views to the Fiz cliffs.

Authors pick:

~Mont Blanc nursery slope. A better learners and little kids run could not be imagined. Impossible to go too fast, a cafe to sit in the sun and every now and them a cog railway train may pass. It is complemented by my favourite piste in the area being just next door. This steep red is not very long with a viciously fast drag lift. Perfect if parents are tag teaming the kids on the green. They can return from a couple of minutes blasting fun before junior has realised they have gone.

~Les Veilles Luges. A Kids story book chalet perfectly hosted by Claude and Julie with fab food. Home made van chaud is too good, traditional farçon is deliciously savoury and calorie rich and those oh so pretty deserts. Access is down a little twisty path just away from the pistes. We like it so much we hired it for our wedding reception.

~Easy route from the very top all the way back to village which is achievable by most skiers and riders, very satisfying.

~Excellent integration of prepared walking trails, cross country tracks with the pistes. This offers a unique chance for parties wanting to do different activities and still meet up for lunch.


Yes yes, we mean the one in Italy. Over the last few years this has become almost a part of the lift system. It and the bus link are included if you have the Mont Blanc Unlimited pass. Sunny slopes, perfect grooming and full Italian charm makes this such a pleasant contrast. Two holidays in one, there’s value for money. There are runs for all abilities, a park that progresses from slightly scary to panic attack inducing rails and kickers. The off-piste is skied less than on the French side, which is a good thing.

But the real point for popping over is the food. Can’t write anymore without risking flooding the keyboard with saliva. Despite the gastronomic quality prices are reasonable on the mountain restaurant scale.

Authors pick:

~Coffee, it is delicious in all places it is sold, Hot chocolate more like an unset mousse.

~Local and Piedmontese food in Chiecco, Anna will do her best to burst your waist band. Don’t start lunch too late if you want to ski before the lifts close.

~Rifugio do Monte Bianco, melt in the mouth game stews, vegetarians we have been with also rave. Not about the carni-fest though.

~Christiania for perfect pizza and good local antipasti in an atmosphere of charming Italian

~La Chaumiere for wood grilled meats, though smells wafting over the chairlift can be torture.

~The bunny runs through the woods seem to be specially good here, fun for the smallest snowplougher hilarious for oldies too.

~Powder through the trees into Val Veny. Off-piste skills needed, if you don’t have them get a guide or instructor.

~Cruise on moderate slopes all the way to charming little Dolonne village.

Les Grands Montets.

Lower half. The main skiing and riding is covered in the high altitude section but the lower part is more like a midmountain area. The home run gives 5km of consistent red difficulty. Nicely protected during bad weather and good fast cruising (before home time crowds start the commute.)

Away from the piste are around 20 couloirs lines that range from difficult to extremely difficult. Abseils needed on some lines. There is also a less difficult but still challenging run on the lower Argentière glacier.

PLEASE, unless you have the skills and equipment to take on steep avalanche prone terrain or off-piste glacier runs hire a professional.

Authors pick:

~9.30 on a January morning on the home run, (Pierre à  Ric)  helmet on, race skis on, power down with the fastest curves. Next season we will be equipped with a GPS speed thingy. Take care of other slope users.

~The Y couloir. Short section at around 50°. The shape and orientation seem to keep powder in the main part of the couloir for so long.

Low altitude areas

These are mostly the nursery areas but not entirely.


Our personal favourite learner slope both for taking friends and our own skills practice time. Long, wide and consistent. Nice restaurant and sandwich bar just over towards the main car park. Links very nicely with the Le Tour lifts.

 Authors pick

~Mini boarder cross one side of the area, rollers jumps the other.

~Brilliant snow holding, keeps good natural snow without resorting to snow cannons.

~4 drags limit the queues.

Les Chossalets, Argentière

Little area that is super gentle on the lower half then progressively steepens. Big flat at the bottom for day one.

Authors pick

~Path through the forest allowing those coming down from Grands Montets to ski to meet up with beginners.

~Sweet bunny runs in the woods starting from the top of the long drag. Keep an eye on your kids if they are in there.

~Good length toboggan track.


Has a couple of quiet beginners lifts, and a longer chairlift with a red and a bluetrack pistes. Proper self service restaurant on the slopes.

Authors pick:

~The restaurant is a real plus when out with the smallest on a cold day. It is the easiest place on any beginners slopes to whip them inside at a moments notice for defrosting.

~The easiest slope has been shaped to perfection, just enough angle to keep going but not too much that speed to builds up scarily.

~The chair lift is normally the last decent sized lift in the valley to close when it is blizzarding.

Le Savoy

Handy beginners area near Chamonix town centre. Plenty of sun.

Authors pick:

~Extensive flat snow play and first time with ski or snowboard on area.


Les Houches town centre beginners slope. Good for Les Houches based groups.

Authors pick

~Free use, that can’t be beaten.

~Night sessions in high season.

~ Adjacent free outdoor ice rink.

La Poya, Vallorcine

A little area in the forest with 3 lifts. Given it’s limited size it has an amazing range of terrain. Unfortunately it is not covered by the valley lift passes.